It is funny how perception can influence ones perception of a place. With out a doubt Syria left a sour taste in our mouths. It just left us with a feeling of disappointment. Jordan on the other hand started on precisely the right foot. You cannot believe what a difference a smile from a friendly official makes. The border crossing was dream. We had to pay a bit. For instance the car insurance for a month is 36JD and to stamp the Carnet costs 20JD, but that’s not so bad. The best part of the border crossing was the fact that as South Africans we do not need visas to enter The Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan. Great success!
Once through the border it was our mission to find camping. This turned out to be a mini adventure by itself. As luck would have it our visit to the Kingdom coincided with their local elections. It probably has not been an issue at all if not for the fact that our GPS kept taking us through the heart of public gatherings. Silvie was driving and she does not seem to slow for people. It got me worried but probably not as much as the people who had to dive out of the way. Luckily we managed to avoid most of the happy voters. Having dealt with them our GPS decided to keep making our lives interesting. It sent us down one of the craziest little mountain roads we have come across thus far. The worst moment was when we turned the umpteenth switchback only to almost connect with an overloaded taxi coming in the opposite direction. To demonstrate just how close things were. The taxi that had been hearing up the hill had to swerve completely off the road. I suppose the prospect of connecting with our massive bull bar was not something he was prepared to do. We drove considerably slower after that. The reason we were even on that road was that we were looking for a camping spot in the Dibben Forest Reserve. We never did find the spot that the GPS indicated, but we did manage to find the forest reserve’s headquarters. This was an excellent find as the guy who was working there allowed us to camp behind the main building for free. It worked out really well. The next morning we had a brief walk in the reserve, we didn’t see much so decided to head out for a day of exploring.
Our first point of call was the Baptism Site of Jesus. At first we were annoyed that they only way that you can view the site is by paying 7JD each for a shuttle bus ride to the place. However, things turned out well as guide had studied Biblical history and was shared a wealth of information to us. He even went as far as to dray maps in the sand to illustrate the difference between modern day maps and that of the Bible period. He also explained at length the various reasons why this site specifically is accepted to be the Baptism Site of Jesus. Another one of the facts he explained to us was the origin of the river Jordan’s name. Apparently the word Jordan is derived from an Aramaic meaning steep slope. The reason this word was given to the Jordan is because of the river’s geographical characteristics. The river drops from its origin at 3000 meters above sea level to 400 meters below sea level in under 300km. Quite amazing! Interesting facts aside, as a Christian, one cannot help but feel awed by the whole experience. To think that our Lord Jesus Christ, had walked in virtually the same place as you. I now have a better understanding of just why the people in this region are so protective of this part of the world.
Once we had visited the baptism site and taken a picture of the muddy and dwindling Jordan River, we headed for Mt. Nebo. This was the where Moses was shown the Promised Land, but was told he would not enter it. When we told our guide where were heading he made the comment: “Not even he could get in without a visa”. This made me feel a little better about the Syrian visa episode at least. When we got to the mountain we had to fork out some more cash. What made it worse is that when we eventually reached the exact spot that looks out over the Jordan Valley our camera battery decided to die. Oh well, at least we got to see it. There is a massive movement in this area to build new churches in both places. We were told that they want to make the Christian Pilgrimage path far more accessible. Lets hope they are not just doing it for financial gain, but on behalf of Christians everywhere. It waits to be seen.
With our religious sightseeing done, it was off to do the compulsory swim in the Dead Sea. Our first attempt at it was next to the Holliday in. It looked like a massive building site, so we assumed that they wouldn’t mind if we just drove up to the water and had a quick splash. We were mistaken. It wasn’t two minutes before a security guy came sauntering down to tell us that this place is “out of bounds”. Unfortunately for him it was a long dusty road back to his post. So we made sure he ate a lot of dust before we left. I mean a 3 tonne Land Cruiser can through up a bit of it when pressure is applied to the right pedal. I feel a little bad about it now though. Anyway the Dead Sea is a pretty big place so before long we came upon the perfect spot. Once again our superior clearance allowed us to venture very close to the water. We jumped out and went straight to the water. Wow! As many photos as you see and as often as people describe it. Floating in the Dead Sea is completely unreal. It is as easy to submerge yourself as it is to float on it. At first Silvie was just standing and looking at me, but it wasn’t long before she just couldn’t resist the temptation of the water any longer. Not knowing if the water is caustic or if it’s bad for you we soon got out. We were also just a bit nervous about being caught. The priority for us then was to get ourselves free of the salt, as you could imagine, so we put our solar shower on the roof and had a great shower. Silvie recons we didn’t even need soup as the salt would have killed all the bacteria on our skins. I tend to agree with her.
Earlier that day we had phoned our Swiss friends to tell them we would meet them somewhere near the Dead Sea. Unfortunately our Phone decided to give up the ghost, well at least our Syrian sim card did, and you couldn’t expect anything less really! Anyway we were stranded without a means to make or receive calls. So we decided to drive on South with the hope of meeting up with Roger and Marina at a later stage. We had driven approximately 100km and had just pulled up to make supper when a text with their coordinates arrived. It didn’t take much deliberating before we decided to pack our stuff and go and find our friends. This ended up being quite an adventure. Not only was it more than an hours drive, but when we got to near the coordinates we discovered that the point that they had given us was halfway up a mountain and there was no direct route from the bottom. We reasoned that they must have come towards the Dead Sea from the other direction so we decided to drive around to the other side of the mountain. Well to put it short. After four hours of driving some of the hairiest 4×4 roads and obstacles we never got within 1km of the said coordinates. It later transpired that these were not the right coordinates. It didn’t really matter. We had a bit of fun and we ended up setting up camp in a gorgeous spot on top of a mountain overlooking the Dead Sea.
The next morning saw us doing a bit of compulsory bird watching on our way back to the main road leading south past the Dead Sea. So we were back on the road heading back feeling quite despondent after not finding our friends. You could imagine our delight when we recognised the distinct shape of their Land Rover, with its spotlights in front and the tent on the top, coming in the opposite direction. With flashing headlights and screaming tyres we pulled of to the side of the road. It was such a good feeling at finally finding them. It turns out they had been up most of the night worrying about what had happened to us. With greetings completed we headed for the Dead Sea’s very own hot springs. Man alive! They are not kidding when they say “hot springs” the temperature of the water ranges between 45˚C and 60˚C. I mean my bathwater isn’t even that hot. What makes it even stranger is that these hot springs come in the form of a massive waterfall. It is an odd sensation. Your mind is expecting the water that is cascading over the rocks to be cool and refreshing. Instead you are pelted by searing drops of water that almost turn to steam on impact with your flesh. However, you soon get use to it and it becomes quite relaxing. For a time at least, for you can only stay in nearly boiling water for so long. If only they had a cold swimming pool that could offer you the opportunity to recover from the heat. Anyway we had to make the most of it seeing as we had to pay 15 JD per person to get in. For the novelty, I suppose it is worth the money. Besides we had found our friends and we had got the opportunity to fill all our water tanks and do dishes.
Did I mention that these hot springs are located at the bottom of a valley? In fact they say that the bottom of this particular valley is 100m below sea level. Our GPS said differently, but that did not change the fact that getting to and fro from this place was hell on poor Big Red. To put it this way, on the way down our brakes smelt if they we about to catch fire and to get back to the to, all we could do was floor it in second. Very scary!
Once we had reached the top Roger and Marina lead us to the place they had camped the previous evening. It truly was a magnificent spot overlooking the Dead Sea. We soon had the tents up and busied ourselves with making supper. More importantly we were able to make a bon fire with wood we had collected at the Ma In hot spring. What a treat, not only did our Swiss friends make the best supper, but they even spoilt us with their famous “chocolate bananas”. Molten Swiss chocolate inside a roasted banana was always gong to be spectacular. While camping another overlanding family joined us. They are Peter, Helena and their son Andre. They are also heading for South Africa on roughly the same route as us.
The next day we decided to show Roger and Marina the spot we had swam in the Dead Sea. This time we were far more relaxed and really took our time to enjoy the experience. It was so strange to try and stand upright in the water. No matter what you feet keep bobbing upward. Altogether it was a very enjoyable experience. We then had a solar bag shower and headed for the Majib Nature reserve. Unfortunately, as with all the other sites in Jordan they ask extortionate entry fees. So we decided not to enter the canyon. However it was here at the reserve that we met a French couple who directed us to an incredible canyon that is only 15 minutes drive down the road, more importantly it is absolutely free to get inside it. This same couple also informed us of the ridiculous prices the Jordanians are asking to enter Petra. It is 50 JD per person for one day, 55JD for two and 60JD. What they had done to get around this obstacle was to by a three day ticket go in for two days and then sell the ticket on the third. If you want to save money, you sometimes have to be ‘creative’.
We did find the canyon the people had told us about. It was just past the Potash factories. The entrance is opposite the big white memorial site. It had to be one of the most magnificent things we had witnessed thus far on our journey. It is a narrow canyon, with walls that go up about 100m to either side. The sensation is completely breathtaking. What made it even better is the fact that we were able to drive about 2km into the canyon, in order to camp right in the heart of this incredible place. We were able to make diner and then eat it beside our roaring camp fire. Waking up the next morning with the soaring Wadi walls to either side was something that words simply cannot describe. A definite highlight in the trip!
Off to Petra to face those crazy prices. Well in the end it turned out that we are also capable of doing some ‘creative thinking’ of our selves. It came about as follows. While we were at the entrance to Petra we ran into Peter and Helena. We stood around discussing the diabolical prices, when we struck upon an idea. We were three couples, so it would not be too difficult to by two three day tickets and then share the cost among the 6 of us. Each couple would go on one of the separate days. This worked out well as 20JD per person is considerably cheaper than 50JD per person. I was a little apprehensive about being asked for ID because the tickets have names on them. It turned out that they don’t ask at the gate and even if they did all you have to do is say you left your ID at the hotel. To be honest the place is so busy I doubt that would ever be a problem. While in Wadi Moussa, the town nearest to Petra, we stayed in the grounds of the Valentine Inn. It was cheap enough and they offer a buffet for only 5JD. Just don’t try and make a fire in their grounds. The owner definitely takes an exception to this. The first day, while Peter and his family went into Petra we spent the day surfing the web and playing cards with Roger and Marina. The next day, while roger and Marina went to see Petra; we went in search of a new gas bottle as well as Dana Nature Reserve. We now have a massive 25kg gas bottle strapped down in the back of the truck, but we still have not seen the reserve. Go figure.
So at last our turn to see the set for Indiana Jones had arrived. They are amazing to behold and the place is seeped in history, but I am not sure if I would be willing to pay 50JD to see it. In Petra there are two major sites. The first is the same one everyone associates Petra with. The one with the massive red pillars carved out of the rock and the other is the Monastery, which is located at the top of one of the mountains there. We entered the site around 6:30. We knew the place would be inundated with tourists before long so we made a mission to get to the Monetary ASAP. We managed to make it to the top before 8:00. We felt pretty proud of ourselves. The only problem is that we were so exhausted we didn’t feel like exploring much after that. Make no mistake it is a place we will never forget, but 6 hours of walking around was enough for us. So by 12:30 we were once again on the road, this time heading for Wadi Rumm.
Originally we had decided to meet up with our Swiss friends only the following day. We had thought that it would take us at least the entire day to explore Petra. It didn’t so we were ahead of schedule. When we arrived in Wadi Rumm there was a campsite charging 8JD per person. We would have paid it but there was no electricity, so we bid them a friendly goodbye. On exiting the campgrounds we ran into Sim and the girls. We exchanged hugs and stories and we told them that we were not terribly impressed by the campsite (Bate Ali) and that they should try somewhere else. We were in the process of doing this ourselves when came up to the gates leading into Wadi Rumm reserve. What do you know? Here too they are asking exorbitant prices to enter the desert. This to me was the final straw and I told the official as much. I was determined to head straight to Aqaba and get the next ferry to Egypt. Fortunately for the second time on the trip we encountered our Swiss friends coming in the opposite direction. We were so glad to see them. Again some ‘creative thinking’ was applied. We decided to simply find a different way into the desert. It wasn’t terribly difficult. I mean it is a massive expanse of red sand and mountains. So instead of paying 30JD for us and the car we were in the desert for free!
Wadi Rumm was another one of those places you dream about when you are envisioning an overland journey. The sand is a brilliant red and the sandstone mountains have been so beautifully shaped over the millennia that it makes describing their wonder simply impossible. Driving in the desert was awesome. We even had to let the tyres down for the first time. At first I was struggling, but by the third day I felt far more confident. Silvie never had any trouble driving in the sand. Her foot is decidedly heavier than mine. This seems to be a distinct advantage when you are driving in thick sand.
Roger and Marina, being Swiss, love climbing. So on our first morning in Wadi Rum we decided to climb one of the beautiful rock outcrops that we camped next to. Now for those of you that do not know Silvie that well, she has a serious fear of heights! So I was pretty amazed to find that she was scaling this mountain with us. Well she did up to the point where she looked down for the first time. It was tickets after that. Never mind, she still did pretty well all things considered. As for myself and the Swiss managed to traverse the rest of the outcrop pretty much without hindrance. That is apart for the time when one of my footholds crumbled, causing an emergency shorts swap at the car. The view of Wadi Rumm was breathtaking!
We stopped again for lunch and did some more climbing as well as had a spot of something to eat. It was such a great experience sitting in the shadow of a massive red sandstone outcrop with the sand stretched out before us. The whole time we were keeping an eye on the GPS making sure we stay well clear of the check points and gates. It seemed to work really well and we spent the day riding around without anybody asking us for a permit.
With the evening fast approaching we drove up to the largest sand dune we could find. We had to take pictures of course. Red dunes and a blue sky do make an amazing backdrop for photos. As you could imagine, we were not the only people that thought that the dune makes an idyllic spot. This must be the busiest dune in the region. It happened to be fantastic! Desert T.V. watching the tourists come and go as well as the antics of the crazy desert guides. It all culminated in Roger having to winch one of those cowboys out of the sand. I thought his winch was going to tear the guy’s truck in half. But the funniest part of the day had to be when Silvie decided to go for a shower at the precise moment twenty odd tourists came to see the sun set over the dune. The sheer panic in Sivie’s voice made me almost we myself with laughter. They never saw anything, but that did not stop Silvie from feeling very exposed. Eventually she did get clean. Altogether it was a highly enjoyable evening drinking beer and cooking over an open fire.
The next morning, after breakfast we decided to make our way towards Aqaba. This turned out to be quite the adventure. The track out of Wadi Rum is fairly simple to follow. It is used often so is very clear. The issue arrived at the point where we had to decide to go the ‘scenic’ route or head straight for the highway. Guess which way we decided to go? At first it seemed to be just a rough track, following the power lines towards Aqaba. However, the track leads to a very nice little tar road. This should have got the alarm bells going. It didn’t, so off we went on our merry way. About 20km down the road we drove past a military. He was off to the side and the guy in the vehicle looked half asleep. So when he waved at us I decided to just drive on. Not such a bright move on my part. A short while later that same vehicle came screaming past us at a rate of knots. There was a soldier on the roof with a massive automatic weapon trained on us. I can only imagine what the poor Swiss were thinking. I mean I have experience with this kind of thing. You would have thought I would have learnt my lesson in Turkey about staying well away from military zones near borders. But that’s me. I’m not what you would call a fast learner. So after handing over our passports we were taken by military convoy to the headquarters. Definitely not good times! In the end we just had to explain who we are and where were going. I had to play the stupid tourist card again. Luckily it comes easily to me and in the end we were given sweets (seeing that it was a festive holiday) and sent on our way. We only lost a couple of hours and sweated a couple of bullets. A story to entertain the grandkids one day.
Finally we made it into Aqaba and into the campsite that we were recommended to go to. The place we stayed at was the Bedouin Moon. It’s an awesome little place with a swimming pool and comfy seats where you can put your feet up for a couple of days and catch up with the blog. After settling in a bit and having a swim it was time to go into town and sample the real deal local McDonalds. What a treat! Aqaba is also perfect for stocking up on the essentials, i.e. Nutella, biscuits and beer.
I have never been snorkelling before, so seeing the pristine coral reef right in front of our camp, was incredible to say the least. We had to go and do a bit of shopping about to get some good, cheap snorkelling gear. With the search we had stop for lunch, so of cause we had to frequent the local Pizza Hut. We are such cheats. So much for immersing ourselves in the local culture! Once we were back we went for a snorkel. I was dumbstruck by the abundance of life only mere feet beneath the surface of the sea. Snorkelling is something I definitely like. However, I doubt I will ever again have the opportunity to snorkel in a place where the water is as clear as it is in the Red Sea. That evening we smoked some hubbly bubbly and drank a couple of beers, very relaxing if I have to say so myself.
As much fun as we were having it was time for us to leave Jordan. So to do this we needed to buy ferry tickets to Nuweiba and get visas for Egypt. Finding the ticket office is a simple affair. It’s the first large building on the left hand side of the road past the first set of traffic lights coming into town. At the time we paid 271 JD for two people and the car they print the ticket and tell you to be at the Ferry no later than 11 a.m. The visa was just as easy an affair. We to the Egyptian embassy first thing in the morning and were then told to collect it the same day at 13:00, very civilised indeed. To celebrate how easy everything went we naturally had to go and have some more local McDonalds. That evening we returned to Aqaba with the hope of watching the Springboks play. We did manage to find an English pub that showed the ruggas, unfortunately the only game we watched was New Zealand vs. France. It was an enjoyable game and a great little pub. We had decided that we would not be sleeping in the campground. What we did instead was to move to the front of the establishment, where there is a building sight and an easy enough place to set up camp for the evening. We had some wood and so decided to make some grub on the coals. It was amazing to fall asleep with the sound of the sea lapping against the shore.
Our last morning in Jordan was fairly straight forward. We woke early and went straight to the garage to fill up all our tanks. Little did we know that Egypt had the cheapest fuel in the world. Oh well, you win some you lose some. After this it was time to head for the ferry port and start the exit procedures.
